I unplugged it but not overnight.. will do that tonight.

I appreciate the help guys!

Fuel pump is coming in tomorrow. I'm hoping it fixes the problem. If it does... I may be able to enter the event Saturday!

Double post... I will use this post to thank you guys for your help.

Okay so I replaced the fuel pump.

The car will rev at FOERST but after a while it will rev slow and when I try drive somewhere it barely moves under it's own power.

Plus the car is heating up really fast and there is steam coming from the radiator. Once I get some cash in I'm going to have it pressure checked. I tried a different radiator cap and it still did it. I replaced the water pump and I current have no t-stat and it's an aluminum radiator. I'm assuming it's the leak that is causing it to heat up so quick. Head gasket is new too and I bled the system profusely.

Any how back to the main problem Things I KNOW are good

Fuel system:
Pump
Filter
FPR
Fuel Rail
Injectors

Ignition:
Plugs
Wires
Cap
Rotor
Distributor
Ignition Coil

Top end
Head
Head Gasket
Valve Train
Timing chain
Tensioner

Sensors
MAF
Knock
02
ECU
EGI Relay and EGI Pump Relay

Reason I know it's good is because it is all new. My next try is the TPS, it isn't throwing a code but I'm gonna try to recalibrate it or what not.

AHH I need to quit messing with this KA and get my SR put together and swap it.


*edit*

Okay so new symptom... I went back to check a few things and after the car ran for a bit the headers were glowing red... Any thoughts?

headers glowing read means timming is crazy out or low fuel psi/injector timing.

I just finished searching and that is the conclusion I came to. I'm currently tracking down a timing light.

Since the head was just replaced, it could even be the cam timing, but start with ignition timing. Did it ever run correctly after reassembly?

No it never ran correctly so I re-did the cams multiple times. I had done them before because I put the previous motor together and my friends motors together. When it ran weird, probably due to the bad knock sensor plug, I started experimenting with cam positions. I have the hot cam swap so they don't match up with the timing marks.

I normally set the cam lobes facing away from each other on #1 cylinder at TDC so they are pretty much like this <o o> I had looked around online and wound up turning the intake cam a tooth or two clockwise so it raised the lobe a bit.

I tried setting the timing last night with distributor and I unplugged the tps and set the timing to 20 degrees btdc, which is the factory setting, and when I did the idle was around 3,000 3,500 rpms. When I plugged the tps back in it dropped and went WAY Retarded and wouldn't rev up well at all.

I'm going back in between classes and am going to set the cams back to what worked for me in the past and other motors I have put together.

Thanks again for your help guys, I really appreciate it.

Idle at 3k means you probably have a vacuum leak too. Don't use propane, use starting fluid.

The thing is though, the idle drops as soon as I plug in the tps. The increase in idle is directly related to the advance in timing. It starts at the FOERST mark on the crank which I think is 5 ATDC and as I turn it to 20 BTDC the idle increases. Other wise it idles around 1000 which is still high.

That sounds exactly like a stuck open... erm.. forget the name... not the idle air control valve on the back of the plenum, but the one curled up in the runners. It's essentially causing a vacuum leak but you won't find it by injecting gas. There is a FAT vacuum line that feeds the two valves, disconnect it and the TPS and the car will idle really high. Plug it with your thumb and see if it drops/stalls. If it does, one of those two vavles is bad/not sealed to the plenum/ has bad wires. It's probably that you can't get to... it happend to me with my last rebuild and had me stumped for DAYS, and you can't get to that guy with the manifold on, but you can play some funny tricks to block it off and still supply the IACV if you have a long hose.

is it the one one the inside middle of the manifold? How can I block it off?

Would you be able to locate it on this picture?

Okay so here are my cam positions. At tdc on the compression stroke for #1.



Intake:



Exhaust:



Yes the oil will be changed once it's running correctly.

And this is how I have set the cams every other time I have done them with no issue. Reason I changed it was because of the issues I had and looking at pictures online of other peoples stuff.



Any how, any ideas?

*edit* here is a picture of the header turning red

That's a tiny pic, but I'm pretty sure it's 9, the "IACV - air regulator". To repeat.. it's the guy wound up in the runners. If it's the culprit you can .. screw this
I pm'd you my number earlier, use it.

Ah, okay.


My inbox says no new messages.

Thanks for your help man!