Polishing the turd...aka the CA18
Moderators: charlie, CodyW, Rhoad Racing
Polishing the turd...aka the CA18
I normally don't put up pictures or talk about things until they're complete, but I'd like to make an actual PROGRESS thread that doesn't get sidetracked. While I do keep a general goal in mind, I don't normally discuss HOW I intend to reach it, simply b/c there are so many paths to take in this hobby, and I hate the perception of being a wishful thinker, if that makes sense. That being said, I'm not above the idea of kicking around options with people who know what's up.
With that in mind, this thread will be centered around the CA18 build I've been planning. Working with a student budget sucks, so there won't be a whole lot to update as far as purchases are concerned, but I've still got plenty of prep work that I can do right now that has little or no cost.
Goals
Power: 450-550whp, ultimately depends on which turbocharger I choose to go with.
Displacement: Considering a CA18DET/CA20E Frankenstein 2.0L, but may settle for a 1.9L.
Purpose: Street terrorist. Some drift time, more drag time. Basically shooting for a fun, all-around car.
Quick review:
I'll be using the FOERST CA that I had in the car. It initially suffered a blown headgasket, and I took the opportunity to freshen the engine up with all new gaskets, rings, and bearings. Shortly after the break-in, a valve guide cracked and dropped into my #3 cylinder, and killed the engine. With a different engine in the car, I can now take my time on this build and ensure that it's done properly without cutting corners.
Given my current budget (or lack of) I'm restricted to cleaning and addressing aesthetic issues with what I have on hand. I swore that I'd never polish anything again after doing my wheels, but every time I look at them, I can't help but want the same appearance on other parts of the car. So I've decided that everything aluminum that is attached to the engine will be polished. Alternator, CAS, valve covers, etc. I've also got some pretty decent parts that have been stashed away for years, just waiting to be used.
Anyways, here's some pics of today's progress.
Got a gallon of paint stripper, same stuff I used in the USAF. This stuff works pretty fast on automotive paint (and skin) so be careful. The good thing about chemically stripping (as opposed to media blasting) is that it's not as harsh on the metal in terms of removing material. It's a lot more tedious, but if done properly, can still provide a uniform finish. O'Reilly's carries it.
Since this stuff is EXTREMELY corrosive, I wear safety glasses, a tight-fitting long sleeve shirt, and rubber gloves. I don't use latex gloves, and I'll explain why. The chemical I use for cleaning/neutralizing the paint stripper is Methyl Ethyl Ketone, or MEK. It's got a VERY strong scent, and this stuff can eat latex with minimal contact. But it is an EXCELLENT neutralizing agent when using paint stripper. I usually get it at Home Depot, in the painting supplies aisle.
I normally put down a large black garbage bag for my work surface. Easy disposal and clean up. Since the paint stripper dries up when it's a small amount, I normally just pour enough into a GoJo cup and apply it with a paint brush. When using this stuff, it's better to just get a thin layer on it. You don't want to lay it on like icing, since it will have a harder time soaking into the paint. Apply it to where you can see through it. This makes cleaning easier as well.
After it soaks in, the paint will start flaking up like so:
Use a flexible wire brush (purchased mine at O'Reilly's) to work off the lifted paint, and keep dipping the wire brush in a cup of MEK to help clean it up faster. MEK will evaporate when left out overnight, so again, only pour what you need.
After 2-3 applications of paint stripper (most of it came off after the FOERST round, some areas needed a little more persuasion), I ended up with this:
I've still gotta strip the intake manifold, and then I can start working on getting everything else polished up.
Some other things that will need attention:
I'm hoping to have these nearly finished by the end of the weekend.
With that in mind, this thread will be centered around the CA18 build I've been planning. Working with a student budget sucks, so there won't be a whole lot to update as far as purchases are concerned, but I've still got plenty of prep work that I can do right now that has little or no cost.
Goals
Power: 450-550whp, ultimately depends on which turbocharger I choose to go with.
Displacement: Considering a CA18DET/CA20E Frankenstein 2.0L, but may settle for a 1.9L.
Purpose: Street terrorist. Some drift time, more drag time. Basically shooting for a fun, all-around car.
Quick review:
I'll be using the FOERST CA that I had in the car. It initially suffered a blown headgasket, and I took the opportunity to freshen the engine up with all new gaskets, rings, and bearings. Shortly after the break-in, a valve guide cracked and dropped into my #3 cylinder, and killed the engine. With a different engine in the car, I can now take my time on this build and ensure that it's done properly without cutting corners.
Given my current budget (or lack of) I'm restricted to cleaning and addressing aesthetic issues with what I have on hand. I swore that I'd never polish anything again after doing my wheels, but every time I look at them, I can't help but want the same appearance on other parts of the car. So I've decided that everything aluminum that is attached to the engine will be polished. Alternator, CAS, valve covers, etc. I've also got some pretty decent parts that have been stashed away for years, just waiting to be used.
Anyways, here's some pics of today's progress.
Got a gallon of paint stripper, same stuff I used in the USAF. This stuff works pretty fast on automotive paint (and skin) so be careful. The good thing about chemically stripping (as opposed to media blasting) is that it's not as harsh on the metal in terms of removing material. It's a lot more tedious, but if done properly, can still provide a uniform finish. O'Reilly's carries it.
Since this stuff is EXTREMELY corrosive, I wear safety glasses, a tight-fitting long sleeve shirt, and rubber gloves. I don't use latex gloves, and I'll explain why. The chemical I use for cleaning/neutralizing the paint stripper is Methyl Ethyl Ketone, or MEK. It's got a VERY strong scent, and this stuff can eat latex with minimal contact. But it is an EXCELLENT neutralizing agent when using paint stripper. I usually get it at Home Depot, in the painting supplies aisle.
I normally put down a large black garbage bag for my work surface. Easy disposal and clean up. Since the paint stripper dries up when it's a small amount, I normally just pour enough into a GoJo cup and apply it with a paint brush. When using this stuff, it's better to just get a thin layer on it. You don't want to lay it on like icing, since it will have a harder time soaking into the paint. Apply it to where you can see through it. This makes cleaning easier as well.
After it soaks in, the paint will start flaking up like so:
Use a flexible wire brush (purchased mine at O'Reilly's) to work off the lifted paint, and keep dipping the wire brush in a cup of MEK to help clean it up faster. MEK will evaporate when left out overnight, so again, only pour what you need.
After 2-3 applications of paint stripper (most of it came off after the FOERST round, some areas needed a little more persuasion), I ended up with this:
I've still gotta strip the intake manifold, and then I can start working on getting everything else polished up.
Some other things that will need attention:
I'm hoping to have these nearly finished by the end of the weekend.
- Peter -- '66 Pontiac Le Mans - '93 LX 5.0 --
Re: Polishing the turd...aka the CA18
TURD POLISHING INDEED!
looking good peter, will look sweet when it's all done.
looking good peter, will look sweet when it's all done.
Re: Polishing the turd...aka the CA18
if you need a spare CAS for the CA18.. hit me up and tell me what you want to pay for it.. works perfectly, just an extra left over from my shop and a blown CA.
the bare CA timing cover looks awesome..polished will be balls out awesome
the bare CA timing cover looks awesome..polished will be balls out awesome
MBDrift's 1997 German Miata
- shawn shawn
- Hollasaurus Rex
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Re: Polishing the turd...aka the CA18
I bet an SR would polish that up nicely. Just sayin.
_team rowdy_
Re: Polishing the turd...aka the CA18
Hah, thanks Patrick.
Hah, all of the stuff in my pictures are spare parts, but lemme know what all you have laying around. I've accepted the fact that I stockpile CA parts since I never know what is gonna take a crap next, haha.Epik wrote:if you need a spare CAS for the CA18.. hit me up and tell me what you want to pay for it.. works perfectly, just an extra left over from my shop and a blown CA.
the bare CA timing cover looks awesome..polished will be balls out awesome
Probably right, but if I did that, then I'd probably start stretching tires on my wheels. And holy SHIT this intake manifold is a bitch to clean. It's just spray paint, but it doesn't wrinkle up like a normal finish would. It just creates a paste with the stripper and doesn't want to wipe off, instead it just smears everywhere. Oh, the price of vanity. Got some -8AN bungs ordered and the breather ports pulled out. Not gonna order fittings just yet, I just want to get the bungs welded on before I do any polishing work.shawn shawn wrote:I bet an SR would polish that up nicely. Just sayin.
- Peter -- '66 Pontiac Le Mans - '93 LX 5.0 --
- shawn shawn
- Hollasaurus Rex
- Posts: 6963
- Joined: Mon Feb 07, 2005 12:14 am
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Re: Polishing the turd...aka the CA18
Stretching tires would probably polish this turd a bit too.
_team rowdy_
Re: Polishing the turd...aka the CA18
Dunno man, it's still got that awful Silvia front end on it...shawn shawn wrote:Stretching tires would probably polish this turd a bit too.
- Peter -- '66 Pontiac Le Mans - '93 LX 5.0 --
- down_shift
- Muscle Milk
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Re: Polishing the turd...aka the CA18
cure it with fire.AFSil80 wrote:Dunno man, it's still got that awful Silvia front end on it...shawn shawn wrote:Stretching tires would probably polish this turd a bit too.
::::: understeer is definitely a crime - Colin McRae
Re: Polishing the turd...aka the CA18
you too, hahahaha!down_shift wrote:cure it with fire.AFSil80 wrote:Dunno man, it's still got that awful Silvia front end on it...shawn shawn wrote:Stretching tires would probably polish this turd a bit too.
- Peter -- '66 Pontiac Le Mans - '93 LX 5.0 --
Re: Polishing the turd...aka the CA18
Awww I liked the camo! So youre not using the motor you bought in Europe?
siccccckkkkkkkk
Re: Polishing the turd...aka the CA18
Of course I am, haha. The guy I bought it off of spray painted EVERYTHING black, and I'm having to clean it all up. The car still has camo valve covers on it, but the timing covers are the factory color. I'll be rocking those camo units for awhile, haha.jsquared wrote:Awww I liked the camo! So youre not using the motor you bought in Europe?
- Peter -- '66 Pontiac Le Mans - '93 LX 5.0 --
Re: Polishing the turd...aka the CA18
Ohh OK, I thought you said you'll be using the FOERST engine, but then read that is was dead from the valve guide and I got confused
siccccckkkkkkkk
Re: Polishing the turd...aka the CA18
Yeah, right now I've got 2 complete J-Spec CA18's (8 port head), and then the 4-port Euro-Spec head/intake manifold. The plan is to keep driving on the one in the car and build the other motor on the side and slap the 4 port head on there. But I'm still doing research on creating a 2.0L motor by using the 20E crank in an 18DET block. I just haven't put any time into researching the CA20E to know what will and won't work in that combination. I'm trying to avoid using the 20E block, if I can.
- Peter -- '66 Pontiac Le Mans - '93 LX 5.0 --