Have read a lot of good things about OME kits and how well they adapt to different terrains, its a product of the Australian outback which means it will withstand a direct hit with a 10kt nuclear missile also which is a plus haha. I know the kits do really well on trails and washboard roads and act well mannered on the street also (important since I will be driving a few hours in the truck pretty often) but I wanted to make sure it would flex enough for medium duty rocks and what not, looks like it will do fine:
OME is supposed to be awesome, I'd love to rock one of those one day.
I'm already looking into wheel/tire combos that can be done with little to no lift just to stay budget friendly for now, looks like 31's are easy and a 33x10.5 on a 8" wide rim is doable as well. Then again, if I get the one in Athens, I may have a little extra budget to work with and might look into an OME setup w/33's as well....
Called the dude last night and I should be on to check it out this weekend (probably going with Erin on Sunday, if you're free and want to ride along we'd love to have you!). Seems to be quite nice on the inside and outside, only problem is overheating. Current owner hasn't driven it much in the last 2 years and is almost sure it's the water pump (a co-worker told me the thermostat and head gasket are also other possible culprits). Said he still drives it around on his land for very short times though and that the 4wd works great. Lots of other general maintenance was done on it when he just got it, although the chassis has a lot of highway miles from the old lady that used to own it (daily drove it from Decatur to Kennesaw for years, never took it off road or even removed the top though). Also needs a battery. The up side to having those little issues? He'll take $1k. Kinda already talked myself into it as long as there's nothing else crazy wrong (he talked to me for like an hour and told me every imaginable thing about it though, haha). We'll see!
I didnt know this until a few days ago but apparently when the timing chain guides on the 22re go bad it causes the chain to deflect more than it should, which makes it hit the side of timing cover and wear a groove in it. Theres one spot in the cover that has like a 1/8" wall between the timing set and a water jacket, and if the chain wears a spot right there it causes coolant to leak into the timing cover. Coolantloss, overheating, milky oil, etc. Might be worth checking on that dudes truck also.
I need to look into this on mine to see if it might be causing the milky junk I saw, although that hasnt come back yet (fingers crossed).
PS to check it you have to pull the valve cover, so its not an on-the-spot check at all. But if my compression is good this weekend and the milky stuff still shows up, Im going to pull the cover and check it out. This motor was rebuilt but who knows what the mechanic did, could have replaced the timing set but not the cover, and the old cover could have a pinhole leak from before.
Drove this bitch to work today, its a total dog on the streets haha. Gears and fixing the exhaust leak are now #1 and #2 priorities. After the brakes, and the windshield, and finishing the interior wiring and a few other things. Clutch, blinkers, interior lights, and some stuff. Basically a whole list of shit.
Drove on the highway last night for the FOERST time, the tires about shook themselves off the wheels.
Sucks buying something intending to save money, then realizing the "upgrades" have to be redone from the ground up. Charge it to the game! Should have listened to Eugene and bought something bone stock without stripped interior and mud bog mods.
On a slightly more uplifting note, fixed the blinkers with a good fuse and fixed the cluster lights by bypassing the dimmer, which was out of a second gen pickup and not hooked up at all haha. Also got those mirrors on, seat belts in, and most of the interior in. Gotta clean up the rats nest wiring and that should be it for the inside.
Also looking for a cheap head unit if anyone has one laying around.
Identified 90% of the janky wiring today, most of it was audio stuff that i ripped out. Also got everything ready to be extended to the middle of the interior and away from the door sills, relocated the ECU to the glove box and rebuilt the rear window switch because it would only go up and not down.
Flushed and bled the clutch too, about a pint of blackness came out before it started looking clear again.
To top off the weekend I went ahead and pulled the rear drums to take a look, definitely need new drums and shoes back there, will probably go ahead and just redo all the hardware also while im at it. Adjusted the shoes out for now and the e-brake cable too, got that whole business working finally. No more parking it in gear haha.
Trying to decide the best way to get the caked mud out of all the nooks and crannies in the undercarriage, need to run it through a coin car wash and see how much i can spray out FOERST.
That's really your best bet aside from getting a pressure washer.
That or driving through a creek and letting it soak
f00tography
In our minds. In our reality. In our world we are QUEEN DUCHESS TEAPOT HABERDASHERY!! RULER OF ALL!! PARTY OF ONE!!! fooschnicks: totally oawesome fooschnicks: whatever that means gregthore: oaseome gregthore: without me it's just oaweso gregthore: Eugene has a meagan muff
i truly believe that you'll be able to make chicken salad out of chicken shit.
yeah.. a coin op power washer is pretty good.. go to a quiet car wash and bring a bucket and a bunch of cleaners and purple power.
you'll need a good bit of time to spray the chassis to blow out what you can see and wet the mud in there..then let it soak in cleaner.
keep reapplying purple power as it drips off and stuff so it really gets to dwell in that mud and gunk.. then spray it down with high pressure water.
rinse and repeat until the chassis is clean.
i got pretty good at this process with the warwagon and could usually get a mud caked chassis nearly spotless in about an hour.
the best thing is after you initial deep clean.. your cleanings afterwards are way easier.
the key is to not let the mud dry on the underbody.. so powerwashing the underside of the vehicle after a run goes a long way.
i also drove the warwagon as much as possible whenever it rained because the spray brought up by the water cleans the areas that get wet really wells. especially if you spray Purple power on everything right before you leave the house.
Managed to get most of it off today with my garden hose, everythung except the greasy junk on the front axle by the birfs. Really stoked on the progress Im making so far! The list is getting shorter and shorter every day, just gotta finish up the wiring and get the windshield fixed and Im ready for new mods
This thing looks radical!!! After hearing what you said about highway driving I'm glad that my rig is stock haha. Glad to hear that she is coming along though! Once you sort some of the finer things that come along with a truck that has been beaten a little or mudded etc etc, I'm sure it will bring you lots of good times!
As far as tires (coders, this is for you too), stock trucks can run 32x11.50's with little to no problems. A local kid out here has some on his 86 pickup and says they barely even rub and he mashes pretty freakin' hard! 33s can work stock but I wouldn't get some without a litte trimming or a lift.
Sweet, thanks for the heads up! I've seen a few posts about 33x10.5s fitting with no lift but others do say it requires a bit of trimming or a small body lift. Figure I'll just keep a look out for a good deal on anything from 31-33 once I get it and see what happens, haha.
Sounds good hah.
A set of lightly used 31x10.50 geolanders were on the local craigslist here a couple weeks ago but i'd spent all my dough getting the truck ready for smog dammit! Oh well ha