ok kids so since i'm trying to make my car reliable as possible i've considered going the whole N/A route. yeah yeah yeah i know booooo! anyways, what is the difference between the Silvia A's, K's, and Q's? i know the K's was a coupe with the SR. but what was the A's and Q's? i know one of them was a N/A SR20 but which o the confusion is too much! please hel[/

This is all the info I have about the silvias:

KS13 Silvia J, Q CA18DE, 4WS 88-91

S13 Silvia J, Q CA18DE 88-91

KPS13 Silvia J, Q SR20DE, 4WS 91-93

PS13 Silvia J, Q SR20DE 91-93

S13 KS13 Silvia K CA18DET, 4WS 88-91

Silvia K CA18DET 88-91

KPS13 Silvia K SR20DET, 4WS 91-93

PS13 Silvia K SR20DET 91-93

Hmm, don't get the S13 SR20DE's low power hehe

180sx
-Type S and G are SR20DE

The S13 Silvia model's are

- J and Q

This is all 95-98 S14's Zenki or Kouki
-J's N/A base model (green with gold badging)
-Q's N/A full package (black with silver badging)

S15-

Spec-S SR20DE
They also came out with a Autech SR20DE for the S15, it's 200hp.


So the deference of the J and Q models is just the car itself, not the engine specs. Just base model and fll package model. Hope this helps!
S14 SR20DE with ITB's on that sucker. Perfect track car.

my SR has been extremely reliable even being on standalone and running higher than stock boost, it just needs normal maintenance and can't be beaten to death on a daily basis.

Yeah, Erin... you're car feels EXTREMELY solid. The motor seems almost bulletproof!

yeah i think i may have just gotten one of those random motors that was built by the dude that got laid the night before ... but every well maintained SR car i've ever messed with was a good solid setup. the unreliable ones are the ones that are either shitty swap jobs or tuned very poorly, or just plain horribly maintained.

thanks guys preesh-ie ate it! i was considering trying to find a SR20DE but i had thought about it and decided that i could try to go with this rumored SR20VE RWD. but trying to find it has been all but pointless! i was thinking about stay KA and just doing a lighten flywheel to get the revs up faster. set it up touge style... good brake, suspesnion and the basic upgrades.....

Intake, Header, Exhaust, S-AFC II (some ecu variasion) and maybe some cams, clutch and flywheel. i figure that would get me a decent ride for highway and some mountain fun o yeah also throw a LSD in there somewhere. any thoughts on JM's thought process. i have had my great fun with the RB and i just want something that i can have some fun with that will be reliable and stand a good pushing.

Prince Nismo wrote:thanks guys preesh-ie ate it! i was considering trying to find a SR20DE but i had thought about it and decided that i could try to go with this rumored SR20VE RWD. but trying to find it has been all but pointless! i was thinking about stay KA and just doing a lighten flywheel to get the revs up faster. set it up touge style... good brake, suspesnion and the basic upgrades.....

Intake, Header, Exhaust, S-AFC II (some ecu variasion) and maybe some cams, clutch and flywheel. i figure that would get me a decent ride for highway and some mountain fun o yeah also throw a LSD in there somewhere. any thoughts on JM's thought process. i have had my great fun with the RB and i just want something that i can have some fun with that will be reliable and stand a good pushing.

the VE is a badass motor, but very limited production as far as i know. if i was going NA that would be the engine to have, but a well tuned KA is pretty peppy too. if i were doing an NA KA setup, i would go with a light flywheel, some kind of shortened cold air intake (intake goes down under battery tray instead of across the radiator), some kind of decent header and exhaust system, and then eventually i'd fabricate a nice ITB setup . then i'd probably add an AFC to play with the fuel and play with timing settings to pull the most out of it while keeping it reliable.

sweet. thats what i was thinking. glad you agree! much appreciated insight. know anyone that makes a ITB set up? i'm all about high end hp and TQ. always love a good tech person. preesh-ie ate it again.

honestly what I would do is a low buck turbo setup if you just want a reliable extra bit of power. if you run a relatively small turbo and a low level of boost then you'll get that power you want without actually sacrificing reliablilty.

here's my budget KA setup:

-log manifold w/T3 flange ~$300
-older T3 from on of the many many cars that ran them stock in the 80's (saabs/volvos/fords)~$100 used or ~$350 new
-Saab/Volvo intercooler (the single core one that's about the size of a radiator, you can just move the radiator back an inch and mount it right in front making the piping super short). with piping you're looking at maybe $20 for the cooler from a junkyard and maybe $40 in misc piping if you want it to be kinda pretty so we'll say ~$75
-some kind of cheaper BOV~$100w/flange (or 1G DSM valve for cheaper)
-downpipe for SR ~$125 new
-custom O2 housing from turbo to downpipe ~$25 to fabricate
-oil lines ~$50 if you use nice braided -4AN line and brass fittings
-walbro 255hp fuel pump ~$85

then all you really need for tuning is a SAFC and some SR injectors, maybe a Z32 MAF just for shits and giggles. knock back the timing and run 93 octane and you have a mid 200hp fun and reliable car. actually the setup i just described is almost identical to what tony schultz (sp?) ran/runs on his S14. when you add up the NA stuff with ITB's the budget turbo setup is most likely cheaper in the long run.

huh.... thats crazy jdm true. this is why i love gettin people's opinion. JDM tight t0! now all i have to do is sell my Sil Rb Style and get crackin on the new projekt

so what about the almighty ace? what that does mean?

it means that you are cool, therefore i have 2 on my car .

that is super Jdm tyght! i thought the A's were for S15's though. just wondering, but yes that makes you the coolest jdm tyght silvia ever.com

actually, i read that they came on NA S13's (i think), but that badge was too cool to not get .