Leech Catheters and Cattleprod Buttplugs (Chucky the wagon)
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- blink182house
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andysapp wrote:I'm loving everything about this car. RAAAD.
Question; when you're pulling those fenders you're just cutting the inner fender, then folding the lip OUTward? then marking with a marker and cutting off tabs for liner and shaving down some to meet back with the body? is that how?
also when you flip the lip out, how do you keep it as smooth as possible, stick piece of metal beneath it and hammer? just curious, thanks if you can help me out with that.
car looks super dick, tons of character, i dig it.
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Thanks!blink182house wrote: Question; when you're pulling those fenders you're just cutting the inner fender, then folding the lip OUTward? then marking with a marker and cutting off tabs for liner and shaving down some to meet back with the body? is that how?
also when you flip the lip out, how do you keep it as smooth as possible, stick piece of metal beneath it and hammer? just curious, thanks if you can help me out with that.
car looks super dick, tons of character, i dig it.
You pretty much have it down. On the front it's pretty simple, just grab and pull outward with pliers and then smooth it out and trim to suit. For the rear, you need to bust the spot weld between the inner and outer fender. I used an air hammer for this car because I didn't give a shit, but I'd reccommend either the "seam buster" tool or a sheet of steel filed to an edge and a hammer. Once you've got that down, just unfold both pieces outward and section the inner portion so you can work it in strips. If you concentrate on the outer fender, the inner fender will tend to just go horizontal until you can weld it back to the outer if you want.
For the smoothing I either use a sledge hammer as an anvil on the inside and strike it with a body hammer, or for tight spots/places I don't want to stretch too much I'll use a ball peen hammer against a 1# anvil (yes, a one pound anvil).
I'm also going to have to flip the fenders on my MX73, and can take pictures and do a step-by-step if you want.
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right on man, car looks great... i just dig the smooth pull instead of just rolling the fenders as much as possible. I would do this on my car, but the rear quarters have rust on the rear of wheel well so i'll prob just cut and put some wide fiberass fenders to cover it. but one day, ONE DAY, i will do this on a sedan ^_^.StLCankles wrote:yes please and thank you on the pictorial of awsomeness
keep the pics comin man, thing is dick!
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That's bad ass, if I go to another rear diff I'm going R180 and I'll probly just use spacers for going from 5x100 to 5x114. I really do not want to have to build another sub frame. One more thing, did you weld the center viscous or did you buy the spool that they make?mranlet wrote:Bingo. R160 is just strong enough for 200rwhp Datsun 510s. I'd reccommend the entire R180 rear setup, but get a 2004 STi if you still want the 5x100 bolt pattern.Zigerus wrote:That's crazy awesome, that sub frame is crazyness, Why did you decided to change the whole rearend? I am just planing on keeping the WRX rearend unless I upgrade to the R180 from the STI then more than likely just get cust axles. Did you use stock and then just start brakeing stuff?
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When I did the conversion the center spool wasn't available, so TIG welding was the only option.
Mike, the factory brochure I found in the spare compartment claims 160hp/181tq, but considering that it pulls on KA S13s weighing 400 lbs less and smokes stock WRXs of the same weight, I think mine's making more than that just on exhaust and intake.
I've done some more shit on the car, but I'll post pics in a little bit...
Mike, the factory brochure I found in the spare compartment claims 160hp/181tq, but considering that it pulls on KA S13s weighing 400 lbs less and smokes stock WRXs of the same weight, I think mine's making more than that just on exhaust and intake.
I've done some more shit on the car, but I'll post pics in a little bit...
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