Announcement: DGtrials Nashville Drift Event ver. 2

General automotive discussion. If you can read and write... this is the place.

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struka
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Post by struka »

awesome event.....i was so mad i couldnt get the FOERST turn like i wanted it to... :(
i need RUCAs BAAADDD!!
skylinesx
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Post by skylinesx »

looked like you got the course figured out by the end of the day, I couldnt hit any of the turns like i wanted to lol, but i felt like i was improving slowly during the day. think a welded diff would help instead of that one way.
1991 nissan 240sx
-rb25det, greddy, kakimoto, apexi, seibon
-1995 nissan pathfinder
www.jarcoinc.com(O=O)/RPS13\(O=O)Herzog Performance fab.
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Zach
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Post by Zach »

skylinesx wrote: think a welded diff would help instead of that one way.
I think imma have to come slap you then hjahah jk
skylinesx
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Post by skylinesx »

lol why? felt like i was fighting it to keep it sideways the whole time around turn 2.
1991 nissan 240sx
-rb25det, greddy, kakimoto, apexi, seibon
-1995 nissan pathfinder
www.jarcoinc.com(O=O)/RPS13\(O=O)Herzog Performance fab.
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P.Haire
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Post by P.Haire »

nothing to do with the diff.
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Zach
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Post by Zach »

P.Haire wrote:nothing to do with the diff.
thats why, if you go from a good diff that can handle the power and is a proper diff to a POS welded diff that you spent $50 on and will wear tires/not handle power or driving right you've got some things to learn.. :D
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Generz
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Post by Generz »

yo tyler..

air in the lines can do some crazy stuff.. but also check your TC rod bolt points at the a-arm and your rack bushings as well.
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revel
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Post by revel »

finished shaking the crap out of everything. tcs are fine. tie rods are fine. control arms are fine. getting a weird metal clink from passenger side brakes when i wiggle the wheel from side to side. getting a good bit of play from driver front wheel when wiggled from top to bottom.

my guess is the driver side wheel bearing is toasted and the passenger side caliper/hub/rotor needs to be removed and checked out then re-installed to see if it is still there. front rims finally have some scarring!!!!!! droppin tire all day long FTW!
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P.Haire
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Post by P.Haire »

hahaha. 5 lug hubs come with new wheel bearings. who said that?
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skylinesx
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Post by skylinesx »

Zachscar wrote:
P.Haire wrote:nothing to do with the diff.
thats why, if you go from a good diff that can handle the power and is a proper diff to a POS welded diff that you spent $50 on and will wear tires/not handle power or driving right you've got some things to learn.. :D
well i hadnt planned on paying much to have the diff welded have a place that will do it for like 10 bucks, have a spare open diff. with axles laying around and can't afford a 2 way, figured i'd try it, seemed like alot of guys i talk to are running welded diff's? yes, no, maybe? and yes i've got plenty to learn... :)
1991 nissan 240sx
-rb25det, greddy, kakimoto, apexi, seibon
-1995 nissan pathfinder
www.jarcoinc.com(O=O)/RPS13\(O=O)Herzog Performance fab.
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P.Haire
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Post by P.Haire »

as long as your 1 way is working fine it'll be better for you to learn on than a welded. people only get welded diffs because the don't want to pay for a real diff.

i think the best thing to do when you're FOERST getting started is to just drive. if you change your car before every event you'll spend half your time getting used to the change. stay up on changing fluids brakes etc.

the only major changes i did over the past two years were coilovers and 17s. both changes took me a whole event to feel comfortable again.
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skylinesx
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Post by skylinesx »

i see, well i may give the 1 way some time then, I suppose if I can "get good" on a 1 way then i can adapt to the 2 way or welded diff easier. was considering getting rid of my coilovers too and upgrading this fall, the dampening adjusters on the Ksports SUCK. But i see what your saying on you can't constantly change shit on your car and expect to improve if you never get used to 1 set up before changing stuff.
1991 nissan 240sx
-rb25det, greddy, kakimoto, apexi, seibon
-1995 nissan pathfinder
www.jarcoinc.com(O=O)/RPS13\(O=O)Herzog Performance fab.
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Generz
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Post by Generz »

Honestly.. the welded diff isn't too bad to start on. It's at higher speeds when the welded diff makes it a bit twitchier.

It's a cheap way to lay down power consistently to both tires... however if you're on the power with no front traction, it will give you AWESOME understeer.
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matts13
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Post by matts13 »

P.Haire wrote: i think the best thing to do when you're FOERST getting started is to just drive. if you change your car before every event you'll spend half your time getting used to the change. stay up on changing fluids brakes etc.


this is so true. i have a bad habit of change shit cause i like to. but it takes you for ever to learn and feel the car out. i did not see you drive but the best thing i did was learn to control my right foot better.
skylinesx
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Post by skylinesx »

i hear ya, main thing i was working on was when to initiate (especially on turn 1, couldnt work up the balls to start as early as some of you guys were) and when to clutch kick, and then making sure my foot wasnt too hard into the gas and spin out....I had no awsome runs but i had several where i felt as though i improved, my power steering went out at the end of the day and was fighting the wheel the last couple runs gonna try to have that fixed before the next event.
1991 nissan 240sx
-rb25det, greddy, kakimoto, apexi, seibon
-1995 nissan pathfinder
www.jarcoinc.com(O=O)/RPS13\(O=O)Herzog Performance fab.
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